Eolian Islands
Presentation
Seven little volcanic islands surrounded by a warm and
deep sea in an out-of-time atmosphere recalling a history of sea-adventures
going back 5000 years: that's how long man's presence on these islands dates
back. Holiday planning offers the chance of an extraordinary range of ideas in a
natural and largely untouched environment: the main island Lipari, the
green landscapes of Salina, the wild nature of Alicudi and Filicudi,
the sophisticated Panarea and the charming Vulcano and Stromboli.
They have a strong volcanic
character and on most of them some volcanic activity can still be experienced:
the Gran Cratere on the island of Vulcano, finished off with sulphur smells and
hot mud baths, of course, and the Stromboli.
The Aeolian Islands (Isole Eolie) lie to the north of Sicily (Mediterranean
Sea - Southern Tyrrhenian Sea N38 29 16.3 E14 56 44.1) and are in the summer a main tourist resort, attracting up to 200,000 visitors.
The islands were colonized by
the Greeks around 580 BC. They named them after the God of the Wind Aeolus.
The largest island is Lipari, and the others include Vulcano, Salina and
Stromboli Panarea, Filicudi and Alicudi. The town of Lipari has about 11,000
inhabitants. Vulcano is famous for its mud baths.
The Aeolian Islands have been listed by the UNESCO
as World
Heritage Sites
Vulcano is the southernmost island and has some hot
springs, really worth visiting Lipari - the largest island with most inhabitants
and the best tourist infrastructure.
But for real adventure you should head out to Stromboli
Aeolian Islands : Movies and Nature
Film makers have been using the dramatic scenery as a backdrop since the
40s, more recently the jet set moved in, but John Weich finds that the volcanic
Aeolian Islands can still lay claim to being the Mediterranean's last remote
paradise
The
Aeolian archipelago is a cluster of seven volcanic islands ranging in size from
three to 37 square kilometres whimsically scattered off the northern coast of
Sicily. Lipari, Salina, Vulcano, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi and Panarea are
reachable almost exclusively by boat. For spoiled point-to-point travellers
there are helicopter pads, but no airports. Cars are either banned or, when
allowed, greatly outnumbered by loud Piaggio three-wheelers and their quieter
golf cart counterparts.
Without
exception, Aeolian hotels are family affairs with home cooking and friendly
service. Many of the islands had no mains electricity until just over a decade
ago; locals stayed in touch with the outside world by wiring radios to car
batteries.
Over
the last half century, this remoteness, coupled with a dramatic backdrop of
white pumice cliffs and black volcanic sand has proven to be an effective potion
for cinematic backdrops - from Roberto Rossellini's gorgeous but
depressing Stromboli, Terra Di Dio in 1949 to Michelangelo Antonioni's
1960 masterpiece L'Avventura. More recently, Michael Radford filmed his
tear-jerking Il Postino (The Postman) in the village of Pollara on the
island of Salina; so great has been the influx of cinetourists to the house
where Philippe Noiret's on-screen character, the poet Pablo Neruda laid low in
exile, that the owners have put up a sign asking to be left alone.
Yet
while cinema put the Aeolians on the map, designer doyens Dolce and Gabbana,
who have a house on Stromboli, has given them status, attracting partygoers such
as Naomi Campbell.
For
truly unmitigated solitude you have to visit this region in the off-season when
locals are busy retouching their homes and tending to the tiny vineyards that
flourish in the volcanic soil. And save for a few weeks each year even the
popular Panarea is comfortably empty, its stone paths hidden under hibiscus and
wild caper bushes. Only Lipari, the largest island in the group and the closest
to Sicily, intimates it is a serious year-round tourist mainstay, with its
pervasive racks of postcards and cruise ships already moored offshore.
Most
recently, tourism has reached the outermost Aeolian islands of Alicudi and
Filicudi. At Filicudi's dilapidated port, the island is largely uninhabited and
delightfully empty. There is no de facto centre, and the residences are spread
across its 9.5 square kilometres of overgrown vegetation. Even the most
fashionable spot, the black-pebble hamlet of Pecorini Mare, is decidedly low-key.
In the last five years, Filicudi has become increasingly popular, but remains
undeveloped due to intentionally labyrinthine building regulations.
Nearby
Alicudi is protected from wide-scale development by its steep banks. The island,
which markets itself as "the last remote paradise" of the Aeolians,
lacks not only streetlights but streets. Regardless, forward-thinking tourists
have slowly been purchasing homes on both islands.
But
the true bastion of isolation in the Aeolian Islands is the village of Ginostra
on the south-west side of Stromboli. It has possibly the smallest natural
port in the world; there are no cars, no hotels and, until a few months ago, no
electricity. For years, it has been the private domain of Europe's most
exhaustive travellers, the Germans, who have done their best to keep this quiet
paradise all to themselves. How they found it is not recorded, but the key
probably lies in a reclusive German donkey owner who showed up 20 years ago for
some R&R and never left, preferring instead the menial business of hauling
visitors' luggage up and down the steep, zigzagging path.
Unfortunately,
the German's days of solitude are probably numbered, and not just because of the
arrival of electricity. The new, artificial port currently under construction
will make the island more accessible to both hydrofoils and yachts. The German
donkey owner is dismayed: "With electricity, this place is destined to
become vulgar like the rest."
Vulgar,
of course, is subjective. The Aeolian archipelago remains a fantastically
preserved outpost and one of the few remaining places in western Europe where
you can truly feel alone. It is tempting to jump in a boat and visit each island,
to undertake a modern-day odyssey as depicted in Nanni Moretti's Caro Diario
(1994), but don't.
In
the summer, travelling by hydrofoil can be a congested and tedious affair, and
though you can see your destination, it often takes hours to get there. Instead,
limit yourself to one or two of the islands, and enjoy the extravagant Aeolian
cuisine, its olive oil, its capers and its Malvasia.
From http://www.guardian.co.uk/
The Aeolian Islands Smouldering
volcanoes, bubbling mud baths and steaming fumaroles make these tiny
islands north of Sicily a truly hot destination. This extract from Time
Out's new Italy guide reveals the best places to eat, sleep and play
Astonishingly beautiful and extremely
varied, the seven islands and various uninhabited islets of the Aeolian
archipelago were designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2000. Their
volcanic origins left a dramatic legacy of black-sand beaches,
smouldering craters and splintered, rocky coastlines. Island-hoppers can
discover their individual charms: from the spartan conical Alicudi,
where donkeys are the only form of land transport, to the international
jet-set playground of Panarea.
North of Sicily in the Tyrrhenian Sea,
the archipelago was named after Aeolus, god of the winds, by Greek
settlers. This has been a volatile part of the world ever since
Filicudi, the first land mass, emerged from the sea 600,000 years ago.
There are two active volcanoes, Stromboli and Vulcano, and volcanic
activity of some kind, whether steaming fumaroles or thermal waters
waiting to be tapped, on most of the other islands. Winter storms see
the islands cut off for days.
Like many coastal communities, the
islands, with a total population of 10,000, have very different
characters depending on the season. The head count swells to 200,000 in
summer: ports fill with yachts; bars and beaches overflow with the very
beautiful and the very wealthy. In August, the rich and famous sail in
to Panarea on their multi-million-euro yachts to occupy villas or
€500-a-night hotel rooms, and they don't do it quietly. This is easily
the most fashionable and expensive of the islands, but there is more
variety in the Aeolians than a quick jaunt around Panarea's shores in
peak season might lead you to believe.
Aeolian Hotel
Association
http://www.eoliehotel.com/new/index.htm
Via Vittorio Emanuele, 165 - 98055 Lipari - cp
13
Tel: +39090.98.12.894 - Fax: +390909811439
Email:
info@eoliehotel.com
WHY GO ( from Condé Nast Traveller)
Once the haunt of ancient deities, the beautiful
Aeolian Islands off Sicily are now worshipped for their glittering
nightlife and smouldering volcanoes. They are a mixed bag of rough and
sparkling jewels that attract an equally mixed crowd of Milanese
magnates, Sicilian princes, families in search of a quiet holiday, an
international fashion crowd and a few Italian northerners in the know.
It was here in the 50s, that their bold colours and dramatic light
caught the eye of director Roberto Rossellini, who filmed his new lover
Ingrid Bergman on Stromboli, in the film of the same name. Stromboli
still blows its top regularly, but not much else on the Aeolians has
changed. And nowadays, you can party on Panarea and have thalasso
treatments on Vulcano. |